Colombia, home of the World's Most Innovative City

Although I have little photographic evidence of it, my long weekend in Medellin was one of my most pleasant. Maybe this is because what I like most about the city were the intangibles: its relaxed vibe, perennially perfect climate and warmth of its people. In Cartagena I had made a friend from here and she made sure I was always in good company!

Not too long ago, Medellin would have been the last city on anyone’s travel to-do list. Throughout the 90’s, it was known for being the world’s murder capital and for its most notorious resident, cocaine kingpin, Pablo Escobar. This year, however, Medellin was named the world’s most innovative city and has seen an 80% decrease in the homicide rate over the past 20 years. How could that be?!

Botero's version of Escobar's rooftop demise

Well obviously the answer is a complicated one but the gist is this: the city started investing in its poorest, most dangerous neighborhoods in urban renewal projects with the idea that rich and poor should have equal access to public spaces and architecture as well as transportation. Getting rid of Escobar helped a little too...





Medellin is nestled in a valley with gorgeous green slopes to each side. As population expanded and the city experienced an influx of poor, displaced families, make-shift barrios developed, higher and higher up the mountains. These neighborhoods were so disconnected from city, allowing the violence to spiral out of control. Though the situation has improved greatly, I was content to check things out from above in the state-of-the-art Metrocable, Medellin's solution to extend the metro system up the mountains.

The houses highest up the slope were humblest I saw in the country.

In contrast to their dark, recent history, Paisas (as people from the region are called) are quick to befriend, love their city, and know how to have a good time. Two of my three nights were spent dancing the night away to salsa with my new friends.

A bird's eye view of Bogotá

The southern edge of Colombia's sprawling capital of nearly 8 million inhabitants. 

There are 3 ways to the top: walking path,
funicular train, and this tramway.

Where to even start with Bogotá? I ended up spending a lot more quality time with the capital than I had intended, due largely to the wonderful hospitality of my host-family. Before heading south, I had gotten in touch with the Colombians I had lived with in Spain, asking if they had any family or friends that would be interested in meeting up with me. They ended up putting me in touch with their family and a month later there I was, ringing the doorbell of their home. To those who know me, this comes to no surprise, as I've adopted the go-where-you-know-somebody style of travel. I find it a much richer experience culturally to see a place with a local's perspective; to see their daily life, eat how they eat, learn how they speak, and find out what's important from their point of view.

Beya, Susana and me.

Nestled in the Cordillera Oriental of the Andes, Bogotanos live at a lofty 8,660 feet above 

My awesome host and friend, Chacho.

sea level. Rising above the city is a peak called Monserrate, considered sacred by the Muisca indigenous groups that once inhabited the area. When the Spanish arrived, they constructed a church atop this mountain in a symbolic shift of religious authority. Nowadays the site is a destination for pilgrims (some penitents were climbing the nearly 2,000 foot rise on their knees) as well as tourists. I met up with 2 dear friends from my Lost City trek for a reunion hike before Susana headed home to Germany. Perfect day! 

The hour-long hike was a bit more taxing than expected (I like to credit this to the altitude) but what awaited us at the top was a myriad of stalls selling a smorgasbord of delicious (or as locals say: "deli") Colombian cuisine: take a look! 

Here we have: small potatos (papas criollas), blood sausage (morcilla), various stews and beans, grilled corn (mazorca), tamales filled with veggies and chicken, and my favorite: fried ripe plantains stuffed with cheese and a sort of guayaba fruit jam (platanos con queso y bocadillo)

Chicks in the hot tub.

A woman making dough for arepas, a ubiquitous Colombian staple made from corn flour. Sounds simple but the various are seemingly endless. They can be fried, grilled, or baked and stuffed with cheese, meat and/or eggs. Deli. The pots contain different fermented drinks made from fruit, rice or corn.

Knives flying to keep the plates of cheese, bocadillo and arequipe (Colombian dulce de leche) coming!

And to finish it off: Chocolate con queso! 
Hot chocolate with cheese.
Chacho showing us how it's done...

...and me not quite getting it. I think I'll stick to keeping my food and drink separate ;)