Trek to Colombia´s Lost City

After 3 days of intense hiking through the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta we came upon a 1,200 stone staircase laid over 1,000 years before by the hands of the Tayrona people, the original inhabitants of this magestic, selvatic land. At the top of the ancient walkway awaited Teyuna, the remains of the most important city of the Tayrona. Teyuna was the political and religious center for the Tayrona and probably was home to 2,000 inhabitants. However, during the Spanish conquest, the city was abandoned and forgotten for hundreds of years. It wasn't until 1972 when local guaqueros (treasure hunters) stumbled upon Teyuna's gold chaches, that Lost City was rediscovered. For a time, the sacred site was extremely dangerous, with guaqueros fighting to the death over the loot and later guerrilla occupation. Fortunately, it's now well-protected by the military and open to visitors! It can only be reached on foot with a guide from a licensed agency.

Typical water break for Aymerick who
smoked and drank his way up the mountain!

I had set out from the city of Santa Marta, a bit anxious about my preparedness for the trek and who I would be spending every minute of the week with. On the bumpy jeep ride from Santa Marta to the trailhead my fears were assuaged! Enter Susana, German with a Colombian heart and attitude, with enough spunk to break the ice in the best of ways. The others were: Beya, the sole Colombian hiker on the entire trail and with a heart of gold; Jean-Pierre: French gent who travels 10 months out of the year in his retirement! And finally Aymerick: Endearing, chain-smoking Frenchman who despite knowing VERY little Spanish, made himself understood and provided most of the laughs (probably for just that reason!) The five of us meshed easily, and we had a week full of laughter and stories from everyone's worldwide ventures. The guides enjoyed our group dynamic and the fact that Spanish was the preferred mode of communication.

The first 3 days of the trek were tough climbs on dusty narrow roads carved into the mountainside. At times it seemed that the trail builders got lazy and went with the idea that the shortest distance between two points is a straght line...up the mountain. Despite my complaints, it felt incredible to be out in beautiful nature, sweating more than I have in my entire life. 

Clay/manure stoves.

Coffee delivery at 5am. Chivalry in the jungle!

The accomodations were actually quite comfortable: campamentos with hammocks or bunks beds under an open air structure. The guides also served as cooks and we were served heaping portions which earned my appetite a reputation. And with coffee brought to our hammocks every morning, it was the most luxurious camping i've done.

One of the most interesting privileges we were given on the trek was a chance to meet a leader of one of the indigenous tribes. The guides arranged for Fermin, a member of the Kogui tribe to share with us about his culture and world-view. Fermin spoke a clear, slow Spanish with a flat affect, as if to put some distance between us. He spoke of how his culture is very nature-centered and spiritual. Their religion is based on honoring Mother Earth. Before using land to cultivate crops or build a house, they consult their local shaman who spends days in prayer to determine whether Mother Earth will allow for its use.

It struck me how much of a contrast there is between the simple, respectful culture of the natives and the aggresive, often careless nature of the society that basically invaded the land they´ve called home for thousands of years. When sharing about their relationship, Fermin referred to the Spanish and modern inhabitants of the region as ¨hermanos menores¨ or younger brothers. Considering the sad history, I thought this was pretty noble of him.

Fermin is holding his poporo, a gourd given to all male Koguis at coming of age. It contains a poweder consisting of lyme and ground snail shells. They take some of the powder out with the stick and mix it with the clump of coca leaves that they continually chew on. After taking the stick out of their mouth, they wipe it on the gourd, causing the yellow portion to build up. Fermin's gourd is about 2 years old. When it's time to replace the gourd (after 3 to 5 years) the shaman interprets it.

Kogui constuctions. The two peaks represent the two tallest peaks in the Sierra Nevada.

Metate, used to grind corn to make flour.

Thought to be an ancient map of Tayona lands, including rivers , trails and settlements.

Pictures can´t capture the majesty of this place. An unforgettable, magical experience!

In the clouds.

Unlike Macchu Picchu, Teyuna is undiscovered by large-scale tourism.
We only saw one other group the whole day.

Foundation for a house.

The trek was an incredible experience and better than I could have ever imagined! Definitely the highlight of mmy trip thus far. Thanks to all the new friends who made it so!