domingo, 24 de marzo de 2013

Cartagena: colonial, chaotic!


So much for traveling alone! Apart from one moment of realization of my solitude that hit me my first day, I've hardly had the chance to feel lonely. Only 3 days in to my trip and I've connected with some truly beautiful, inspirational people!
It all started with a simple visit to the tourist office shortly after arriving. Since I was the only 'tourist' there and the office was delightfully air-conditioned, (ok maybe I wanted some company too) I struck up conversation with the guides. Upon mentioning that I had plans to volunteer in a neighboring city, Gustavo said that he knew an American who ran a volunteer organization in Cartagena. 
Before I knew it he had called her up and was arranging for us to meet! Well of course I obliged and the next day I found myself enjoying a café con leche (frío!!) with Berit, an absolute angel. Berit and her husband started an organization about 7 years ago through which they support local non-profits that serve the poor in this area. Specifically they plug people wanting to volunteer in with the connections they have here. Before moving to Cartagena, they both were very successful professionals in the tech industry, but gave all that up to serve. And they are so happy to do it!
Agua: bottle or bag? Yasmina demonstrates.
So being who she is, Berit naturally thought of some locals to connect me with! A couple days later, we met Nelly and Yasmina: 2 delightful costeñas that have taken it upon themselves to welcome me to their country! By the end of our lunch they had arranged for me to spend time with both of their families for Semana Santa. So next week will be house-hopping my way up the coast! All this for wandering into a tourist office...
 
Apart from these little 'citas' with new friends, I've been keeping busy soaking in the slow and sweet Caribbean vibe, strolling the charming, bougainvillea-draped streets, and sipping icy jugos of fruit I've never even heard of-A delight for the palate (:
Cartagena is a UNESCO Worldwide Heritage site, for its beautifully preserved walls and colonial architecture, echoing back to a time when the Spanish colonizers had to protect their prize port from the likes of pillagers such as Sir Francis Drake.
Nowadays the walls form a protected tourist safe haven; strolling around at night here is very safe, in fact the streets come even more alive when the oppressive sun slips away! There are vendors selling almost unbelievably vibrant fresh fruit, juices and sweets. There even some that whack open a coconut and hand it to you with a straw! (coco loco)
Selling their fruit, I´m not sure the reason for the frown face...
There is a continuous sound track of salsa or vallenato, punctuated with gregarious car horns (I've yet to gain fluency in this second official language) and vendors shouting out lottery numbers or the simple 'pescao!' (Fresh fish in buckets if ice).

 What a difference from the quiet, snowy streets of Boston!


Cafe Lunatico: crazy is cool!


Fort San Sebastian

After a free chess lesson from a local maestro. The old guys sit around in plazas in the evenings and play some intense matches, with audiences looking on.

Inside the Convent of San Pedro Clavel. He was know as the ´Slave of the slaves´as he dedicated his life in cartagena to serving the slaves brought over from Africa. Humbling experience.
 

miércoles, 20 de marzo de 2013

Columbia or Colombia?

Thank you for checking out my blog! I´m new at this whole blogging thing so bear with me if it´s not so spectacular...

My thanks to Trader Joes, Hanover for helping provide the title. I was grabbing some last minute snacks (how could I live without TJ trail mix?!) before setting out and naturally found myself at the coffee/sample corner. I was greeted with this sign:

I´m sure this looks nothing out of the ordinary for most, but for me, after weeks of clarifying to people that I was headed to ´Colombia the country´ and not Columbia, New York. it made me chuckle. I think that for most of us (my college self included) Colombia the country is at worst a guerilla warzone fueled by cocaine and at best the source of yummy coffee. And since they export all the good stuff (coffee i mean, geez!) why bother going in body and soul?

I have no lofty aspirations to show the world the ´real Colombia´ nor do I have any illusions that it´s the safest place I could be. I am just excited to explore this incredibly diverse country with an open heart and open mind. Having experienced the warmth and alegría of Colombians in other countries (en particular my beuatiful familia in Spain!) I´m hopeful that I won´t really feel alone as a solo traveler. As the Colombian tourist website itself declares: The only risk in coming to Colombia is wanting to stay!